Thought this was a good idea to put up photos and some diary extracts from this fantastic walk 7 of us did between 28/9 and 17/10......where should i begin??..
A wandering monk walked barefoot everywhere he went,
such that the soles of his feet eventually became quite thick and leathery.
And because he ate very little, he gradually became frail.
Several days often passed between opportunities to brush his teeth, so he usually had very bad breath.
Therefore, throughout the region, he came to be known as
the 'supercalloused fragile mystic plagued with halitosis'........
sorry about that ;
here goes...
September 27 2010
This walk was the inspiration of friends Linda and John a few years back. Both of them had some experience of distance walking and Linda came up with the dream of walking accross the Peloponnese, Greece from East to West.
Looking at a road map, it seemed possible to take an interesting route from coast to coast going through Arcadia and some challenging mountains, with 3 weeks set asside and approx 175 miles of walking, this was the shape of our walk.
One of the problems is having good detailed maps of Greece, though some areas are covered by ordanance-survey type maps with contours and features that mark footpaths and tracks. Only one of these was available to us for a mountain section in Arcadia, but proved difficult to follow because the westings and eastings didnt seem to be right!! A Greek misprint perhaps? We had a GPS that Karin brought along for Colin to use to log our progress.
The idea was to sleep out without a tent and wild camp where possible.So a simple gas stove and pot was brought with a few bags of noodles, cous-cous, bulgur wheat; things that dont need much cooking.
We had a few meetings to arrange dates and logistics of getting to our starting point of Epidavros.
So, after preparing our rucksacks (mine weighed in at 15kilos, including 2 litrs of water and felt cumbersome and way too heavy!) we met up on the bus from Koroni to Corinth on the 27 September.
After bus journeys to Corinth and Nafplio, we arrived at Epidavros and walked to the hotel Salina had booked for us. This was our first Km of walking; i felt regret at having to haul such a weight on my shoulders! Nothing could be done now; in my mind i went through all the items i'd brought and couldnt single out anything unnnesecary, except maybe the warm layers of clothing for the mountains later on. It was comfortably warm for now!
A superb hotel with a pool close to the sea; we strolled to the waters' edge and i arranged a photo of all our feet in the water!
John had worked out a Venitian leading chart for us ; So each day someone in the group would lead us and decide where and when to rest and take responsibility for map reading! There would always be 2 of us , so the next person had a feeling for it the following day....well in theory!
This area of Greece seems well moneyed, with attractive houses, well kept. Its relatively close to Athens anyway and tourists would always come to see Epidavros.
I was feeling a little churned up, having had a family visit just days before and thinking about my future here....this trip seemed to come round too fast, but i knew during the walk i could unravell things in the silence of walking.
Here we go; about to leave the hotel on the first morning!
We are a quite a mixed bunch really! aged from 60's to mid 40's, English (me,Linda,John and Colin) German (Karin) Hong Kong (Salina) and Italian (Bruno). What we have in common is walking together weekly as part of a larger group in our home area. Taking on a walk of this magnitude is something different; some have been 'training', but like myself I haven't done any preparation!!
However, Endurance comes naturally having done marathon runs and long cycle trips in Sri Lanka and India... and Wales! My only concern was an absence of my Anterior Cruciate Ligament (ACL) in my right knee that was ruptured after a bike accident in 2006.Having chosen against surgery i have continued to be active but occasionally a twist in the knee will cause me to shudder and quake and to feel nearly sick!
I didnt sleep deeply; the excitement and adventure was looming....
We left at around 8.30 after a lavish breakfast and squirelling away as many boiled eggs, cheese slices, fruit and bread to take with us! We soon made wrong turnings (thanks,Salina and Linda!) and had to make do with a short main road section before a track to our left. we were in good spirits, the sun shone and i felt elated to be on the road! Intense blue morning-glory tumbled over wire netting, glossy orange trees bore unripe fruit, and as always Greek dogs with mad eyes barked and wagged tails at our passing.
One sickening thing here is the welfare of animals, in particular dogs! They are routinely tied up, have some nasty tin or box for shelter and whos life purpose it is to bark. Imagine being re-incarnated as a greek dog? Perhaps mentioning the suggetion to the owners whos karma they might live out!
Away from the main road, the track wound steeply away giving way to sea views behind. My only regret is that we didnt go and see the ancient amphitheatre by the sea...another time maybe.
Soon, my shoulders were tight and compressed. A few adjustments to my bag helped. Its got adjustable straps to get the thing higher up your torso and so tightening a waist strap keeps the weight more over the hips. I'd never really used this bag before and was pleased so far!
At around lunch time we made it to a Monastery in the mountain. It was a long climb through rocky scrub on a good 4x4 track. I sipped water through a 2ltr bladder, and crunched walnut shells, munching the fresh soft contents.Walnuts were in season everywhere.
We were allowed into the monastery which turned out to be a nunnery. What a fantastic setting, glued to the edge of the mountain.
However, Endurance comes naturally having done marathon runs and long cycle trips in Sri Lanka and India... and Wales! My only concern was an absence of my Anterior Cruciate Ligament (ACL) in my right knee that was ruptured after a bike accident in 2006.Having chosen against surgery i have continued to be active but occasionally a twist in the knee will cause me to shudder and quake and to feel nearly sick!
I didnt sleep deeply; the excitement and adventure was looming....
We left at around 8.30 after a lavish breakfast and squirelling away as many boiled eggs, cheese slices, fruit and bread to take with us! We soon made wrong turnings (thanks,Salina and Linda!) and had to make do with a short main road section before a track to our left. we were in good spirits, the sun shone and i felt elated to be on the road! Intense blue morning-glory tumbled over wire netting, glossy orange trees bore unripe fruit, and as always Greek dogs with mad eyes barked and wagged tails at our passing.
One sickening thing here is the welfare of animals, in particular dogs! They are routinely tied up, have some nasty tin or box for shelter and whos life purpose it is to bark. Imagine being re-incarnated as a greek dog? Perhaps mentioning the suggetion to the owners whos karma they might live out!
Away from the main road, the track wound steeply away giving way to sea views behind. My only regret is that we didnt go and see the ancient amphitheatre by the sea...another time maybe.
Soon, my shoulders were tight and compressed. A few adjustments to my bag helped. Its got adjustable straps to get the thing higher up your torso and so tightening a waist strap keeps the weight more over the hips. I'd never really used this bag before and was pleased so far!
At around lunch time we made it to a Monastery in the mountain. It was a long climb through rocky scrub on a good 4x4 track. I sipped water through a 2ltr bladder, and crunched walnut shells, munching the fresh soft contents.Walnuts were in season everywhere.
We were allowed into the monastery which turned out to be a nunnery. What a fantastic setting, glued to the edge of the mountain.
About 6 nuns lived there, restoring and painting icons in one chapel. The original church was tiny and dark, with tiny cells off to the side used for silent prayer and meditation. Outside we were offered Lakumi (turkish delight) and cake. In a courtyard, babbling spring water tumbled from a pipe, flowers flourished and the din of workmen doing stonework cracked the mountain stillness. It could have been a luxury hotel!! I wondered about the up-keep of such places and was sceptical about where the finance comes from.
We continued after a snack( barley rusks and banana) up to a fire lookout post where a large man sat. Bruno in his friendly way chatted to him and he invited us to rest and brew some tea.To the East the coast we had left behind, and to the west, ancient Epidavros our desination for tonight.This man was intrigued at our walking and was curious to meet Salina!
It was grey and spitting rain. We trudged off downhill along a gritty track and the landscape opened up to gentle hills and olive groves under an intense blue.The sky had cleared; Walking at its most enjoyable; we were spread apart and i enjoyed singing to myself. Just the rhythm of walking gently downhill with nothing but oneself (oh, and a heavy bag) and nature unfolding before is a joy.The heat of the sun wafted down and through the soles of my boots, the heat was not uncomfortable.
Somewhere earlier, i had fogotten to pick up my Hazel stick....a friend I brought back from Devon.I was abit sad as i liked the connection to its origins at a singing camp in the summer! However, its just a stick i told myself..
We reached the Ancient site of Epidavros around 6pm and scouted around for sleeping possibilities. At the entrance, a hut selling hotdogs and drinks was still open, some of us quenched our thirsts on cans of Amstel beer and ate hot dogs (yuk!) Karin had never eaten one before! Linda cooked up some bulgur wheat on a bench while the remaining tourist busses departed. A kind fellow told us we could sleep under his cafe awning, so we decamped from the benches and made ourselves at home under big awnings amidst cafe tables and chairs. Darkness came fast and soon we were quiet and fell asleep.
we had walked about 18 kms.....day 1.
Wednesday 29th Epidavros
Slept lightly, the cafe owner opened up as we cleared away our things making it look less like a refugee camp! Expensive cappuccinos and pastries for breakfast followed by exploring some of the ancient site.
The amphitheatre is awesome..a huge well preserved structure. Inspite of other tourists about it has a certain magic; Linda and I sang in the centre, our voices seemed amplified and the acoustics like no other. Its still used as a venue.
After getting our fill of culture, ruins and statues we headed off in the hot afternoon. Away from the site, it seemed dry and hot After an hour or so, we rested by a dried up well. I wrote in my journal while others snored peacefully under silver olive trees. Hot pine scented the air; sky greyed up as we continued, then big raindrops. I enjoyed their impact and the dampness on my skin; cooling and refreshing. Others donned waterproofs, capes, jackets but i didnt feel a need. Off on another 4x4 track that cornered through olive groves and ran paralel to a new tarmac road carving the way in our direction; the bitumen smelt nasty on the breeze. Soon after a solitary section of seeing nobody, we reached a remote stone church. Unfortunately there was no water at a spring and we all needed topping up. We could maybe look for a house that had some, or continue to the next village, A group decision was made to move on. There was still enough light but some of us were quite tired.
We pressed on until the next village...
An ancient taverna with ancient clientelle appeared on the road, Bruno engaged with some of the men, beers were ordered, the primitive hole in the floor loo frequented. With evening light casting shadows, details like peeling brown painted shutters revealed themselves, and the gloomy room inside where old codgers played cards in low voices. There was an odd assortment of things behind the counter, like an eccentric shop, old photos etc. The place had a decaying, much used feel to it, unchanged for years! Another Kraft beer i shared with Colin went down well.
Bruno seemed to be getting a result from one of the locals who was a Spaniard. He wanted to help us out for the night, then things became muddled; there was talk of sleeping in a church, somebody who cleans at the school but without a key...then an omlette and chops from the grill appeared on the table.A few more local blokes turned up and gawped, likely suprised by an influx of perculiar people who are walking across the Peloponnese!
Climbing onto the trailer with our packs, we chugged down the road in the direction of the church.The moon was up, it was warm and still. Lights were put on in the church; its the funniest church i'd seen!! Carpets on the floor, a gigantic chandalear made up of hundreds of bright light bulbs, huge industrial Aircon units on each wall and lots of paintings on walls and domed ceiling.Gold ornamentaion addorned everything. we piled in and realised the sureal nature of sleeping in this place of worship!
Just as we were settling down to sleep,scattered around pews and chairs,there was an impatient banging at the door.I pretended not to hear,prefering to submerge myself into imminent sleep! Through my earplugs i heard an angry exchange in shouting greek between a local and Karin and Bruno.
After a while all seemed well but shortly another outburst from an angry man telling us we could not sleep here.The lights came on and a few of us stirred.This michelin man stalked around as we reluctantly gathered our things and were made to leave this bizzare place.In the darkness we trudged along the road to the school near by escorted by michelin man on his undersized moped.In the end we found ourselves in a moonlit olivgrove outside the town,at last able to nest inside our sleepingbags once again.
During the night i was woken by the brightness of the moon dancing on my eyelids as if someone had turned on a light.I gazed up admiring the glimmering stars through the delicate foliage of the overhanging olivetree.Some distant dogs howled and barked and i felt happy to be sleeping out.
After a while all seemed well but shortly another outburst from an angry man telling us we could not sleep here.The lights came on and a few of us stirred.This michelin man stalked around as we reluctantly gathered our things and were made to leave this bizzare place.In the darkness we trudged along the road to the school near by escorted by michelin man on his undersized moped.In the end we found ourselves in a moonlit olivgrove outside the town,at last able to nest inside our sleepingbags once again.
During the night i was woken by the brightness of the moon dancing on my eyelids as if someone had turned on a light.I gazed up admiring the glimmering stars through the delicate foliage of the overhanging olivetree.Some distant dogs howled and barked and i felt happy to be sleeping out.
Thursday 30th
At dawn we discussed last night;clearly there had been a village split with some of them wanting to help us, perhaps rival families.We assume its ok to sleep in a church,but maybe it isnt?
We sliced up melon in the soft morning light and got on our way again.The first village we reached had a Cafe so we procured coffee and hot chocolate.Bruno charmed the waitress in his usual italian way and had soon became best friends with the whole village.He has an open way of asking for anything which in turn opens up opportunities.In the bright sunshine i removed my sandals and walked barefoot for a few miles,enjoying the contact with warm asphalt.
From a high ridge, sweeping views of Nafplio and Argos presented themselves amongst a distant sea of blue green peppered with a patchwork of orange and olivgroves.Behind,sharp mountain shapes reared up pale blue and lilac.
Lunchtime found us in the shade of a clump of cyprus trees scoffing more melon and resting.Then we continued towards Argos.
I`am saddened by all the plastic rubbish on the roadside everywhere we go.I found a broken kitch bedside light discarded and picked it up thinking of offering it to Bruno as a gift. Instead i placed it on top of a neglected shrine. Bruno said i was very pious!!
At a house we passed, a kind family replenished our water bottles before we hit the flat plane.
The land was a maze of citrus, olive and vegetables growing in this rich,fertile area. In the hot afternoon sun we strode through this sometimes monotonous landscape. It was fast and flat. By now Argos looked close but i knew we still had a way to go. I felt energized by the rhythm and motion of walking,both relaxing and envigorating. Beneath a firey orange glow and the first stars, headlights of approaching cars ushered us to the outskirts of the town. The urban noise and smells replaced the peace of the day.
Exhausted by now the seven walkers picked their way through busy streets and quickly stumbled upon the Argos boutique Hotel!
We littered the lobby with our sticks, rucksacks and dusty boots. The rooms were sorted and after showering we met up in the the Platia for drinks and a meal.
The hotel beds were complete luxury with fluffy pillows and the bathroom equiped with a space-age shower that had numerous jets in the cubicle. I shared the room with Colin and in no time at all we had the orderly neat room looking like a couple of hillbillies had dropped in for the night with our washed socks and the odd t'shirt hanging up to dry and odd bags of snacks and a mug here and there....one of the funny things i enjoy is in the contrasts of overnighting; one night an olive grove/church then this luxury!
Saturday 2nd
After a good breakfast and taking a few extra boiled eggs and cheese from the buffet we left Argos in sunshine.Leaving the busy streets behind we soon began ascending low hills and through quiet villages.We were shown directions by old people;often somebody was there to ask the way at each turning. But sometimes helpfull advice was missleading and vague leaving us uncertain.
A dirt track began behind a scruffy farm which threaded through scrub and olivegroves up to a high ridge that offered mountain views and a hint of our fortcoming course. We descended towards a distant church,where we stopped for our lunch.
There was a storeroom beside the church with a kitchen we found open where we took shelter from heavy rain.We made tea and coffee then had a sharing circle.
We sat linking hands in silence and then took turns in voicing any thoughts,concerns and feelings about being together. This was allways interesting to listen to and helped create good harmony in the group.
After the rain we continued in a nature symphony of soft splashing and bird song mingled with warm,aromatic herbage.
At the next village a kind family invited us to sit and have coffee in little "Feelinzana" (small greek cups). We used the chance to ask, if there was a possibility for us to find a place to sleep. There was only a school unfortunately closed. With permission from the neighbour we used a half built house to sleep in. Another neighbour presented us with a bottle of wine, which we drank with our meal of couscous we cooked on the stove.The house had no doors or windows,just concrete floors cold and hard to sleep on.
A dirt track began behind a scruffy farm which threaded through scrub and olivegroves up to a high ridge that offered mountain views and a hint of our fortcoming course. We descended towards a distant church,where we stopped for our lunch.
There was a storeroom beside the church with a kitchen we found open where we took shelter from heavy rain.We made tea and coffee then had a sharing circle.
We sat linking hands in silence and then took turns in voicing any thoughts,concerns and feelings about being together. This was allways interesting to listen to and helped create good harmony in the group.
After the rain we continued in a nature symphony of soft splashing and bird song mingled with warm,aromatic herbage.
At the next village a kind family invited us to sit and have coffee in little "Feelinzana" (small greek cups). We used the chance to ask, if there was a possibility for us to find a place to sleep. There was only a school unfortunately closed. With permission from the neighbour we used a half built house to sleep in. Another neighbour presented us with a bottle of wine, which we drank with our meal of couscous we cooked on the stove.The house had no doors or windows,just concrete floors cold and hard to sleep on.
As we sat around our makeshift table ilumminated by candle two blokes walked in, one shining very bright torch, he asked what were we doing there in an abrupt manner. We said we have the owners permission to stay there, but he's tone remainded us of the night in the church where they kicked us out! I slept among the snorers John and Bruno, but with my earplugs inserted i could sleep fairly well.
Sunday 3rd
Aching and tired i woke at sunrise. Over the incomplete balcony the watery sky blushed orange and became more opaque.After a quick breakfast we formed a circle and massaged each other.We tidied up and left the buildingsite looking all the more organized and continued on our way.
The valley bottom was wide and flat, so the walking easy.We reached a Kafenion where i could hear the TV playing the Liturgia at the church.We brought up tables and chairs when a smiling lady appeared and we orderd greek coffee.Bruno in he's charming way began chating with the owners.The man wanted to know our ages and was astounded by our walking adventure, as greeks themselves aren't great walkers prefering to drive.There was an Italian connection somewhere with a Bulgarian and the owner.
We found out there was a hut used by hunters on the top of the mountain which we could sleep in later.The owner phoned a friend Vassili and said he would unlock it.
After using the loos and brushing teeth etc. we sholdered our packs once again and started the climb up.The mountain sides closed in as the track hugged the winding edges. At this point we couldn't see the way through. I felt strong and energized during the long climb up and soaked up the passing scenery. There were crows and occasional buzzards soaring through the immense blue above. The silence was deafening, one could almost hear the pulse of the land through the soft breeze.Walking out alone infront, I felt at peace in this wonderful environment without a care in the world!
photo
By lunchtime we reached a hamlet, a collection of rustic stone houses and a church. Beneath a giant walnut tree a powerfull spring gushed forth crystal water and happy locals filled there water bottles. It seemed to be the hub of existence up there where people gathered and gossiped. We collected walnuts and ate our lunch. After resting for an hour or so, we continued upwards.
Just then, a couple of hunters drove up in their pick-up, Karin explained this Vassili fellow would unlock the hzut for us. They hung about unable to help us; wished they would just go away, but good old Bruno enjoyed the smalltalk with them. It was getting cold and light was fading. At last they sped off out of sight.
We tried the windows and searched for a key;i put my hand through a gap and felt the key with my fingers. Carefully i took it and managed to open the door. Hurray! we could get in but this was only a small part of the bigger hut. We cleared out bales of hay and swept the floor; there were knives, scales and random tools lying around, the walls were insulated...how strange? It was decided the women would take the sheapherd's hut and us blokes this goat shack.
Linda cooked up some couscous with tomatoe paste,and I comandered an old Bbq tin and lit a fire inside it. We had our basics; food, warmth, shelter and even spring water for a wash! We glowed by the firelight, sitting on the hay bales, discussing religion and putting the world to rights. Bruno wore his red cape and in the firelight, he looked like a cardinal! I improvised soft rhythms on an old tin can and felt comfortably mellow and a healthy fatigue after the days' walk.
We turned in after letting the fire die down and i once again drowned out loud snoring with the magic earplugs!
Monday 4th.
The night was peaceful, a few owls perhaps hooted. I tend not to sleep deeply while adventuring; maybe its a memory of childish exitement thinking about the day to come and processing the present...
Across the way, cows grazed on steep slopes; there were plenty of pats scattered on the land. I enjoyed a cold wash and a dump behind a pine tree; being in the wild is like coming home really and i feel comfortable in it. Ive begun thinking i could cycle all of this walk so far. Mmm, another trip for another time?
I was leading today,not something i feel strong at ! I enjoy the challenge of interprating a map,but leading a group has its responsibilities and going the wrong way could lead to mutiny!
There was still a few kilometres to the top and when we reached the brow, the view over the Tripoli plane was mesmerising. The clarity of the morning light picked out hillocks and tree copses and toyland tracks crisscrossing like a childs' drawing.Somewhere below lay Nestani, our destination. There was a short cut down a path which we were told was easy to find(!) There seemed to be a collection of goat tracks going down at different angles into a bowl that compressed into a tight gully. On the map, this seemed to be the route but in practise,it looked impossible. Like skiing slowly down a black piste, we gingerly picked our way over rocks. The going was slow. Then Linda saw another track to the left that avoided the gully which we joined. After some time picking our way through vague paths, Colin and Karin veered off out of sight! Us remaining regrouped and tried to see them but couldn't.
Linda was a little upset and i felt i should have shouted louder after to them to stop when they veered away. Colin is abit deaf and Karin cant hear well, especially with a rucksack cutting off sound from behind!
All was well; we spotted them on the road lower down.
On the road before the town, we detoured to a monastery where a sullen nun unlocked a gate. There was nobody else around in the courtyard with its tinkling springwater dribbling from a rock, geraniums in vibrant reds and uniform arches and doors to cells.We looked inside the church, dark and reeking of centuries of hallowed prayer. Iconic paintings glowed softly in the candle light. It was more sombre in colour and light than most other interiors.
We ate our snacks outside the gates with Nestani almost a vertical drop below us. Pressing on into town, it became warm but the sky had greyed up. I kicked furcones and hit them with my stick, and as the road did hairpin bends, I could fire some over the edge to hit Bruno and Linda below!
A fine chestnut tree girdled by stonework and a water tap which had been enveloped by the trees' girth greeted us, then pretty stone houses and flower gardens; the metalic churning of a cement mixer, banging on masonary and muffled chat, tv voices, the staccato bark from a deranged chained dog, all familiar human noises that sound louder and more dischordant the longer one spends in nature.
Karin had negotiated the use of an office floor for our nights' sleep, right next to a kafenion. The only taverna in town was usually closed on Mondays but Karin asked them if they could open just for us, which they did! The office belonged to an environment department and on some tables were computers, calendars and magazines. Placed againt a wall were two manakins dressed in traditional Greek costume. The male wore a very effeminate blouse, belted at the waiste and pleated. I enjoyed giving a puppet show but got scared when an arm became dislodged from the shoulder,meanwhile the female dummy had been offered up to Bruno's sleeping bag in a fornicating fashion, just as a local man came to the door! Someone managed to keep him talking outside while i wrestled with Colin trying to fix the blasted arms back on!! We never managed to fix them correctly, so left them kind of balanced in their sockets before we packed up and left next morning!
Through the night, an aircon unit kicked on/off every ten minuits. Not a good nights sleep but we were warm and dry at least! Linda spent a quiet night up at the ruins under an old bell tower.
Tuesday5th
Autumn chill in the air as we departed from Nestani. The low howl of tyres on tarmac grew louder as we aproached the main Athens Tripoli autoroute. From the ruins above the town, we saw a clear path lead away over the plains, etching its course through shades of ochre and yellows amongst copses of trees to a far away ridge; behind this mountains reared up that hailed our next part of the adventure. Silently, I looked forward to the challenge to come.
Suddenly it really did feel Autumnal, blue, hazey light and a softer sunlight beamed on the trees; leaves were turning and falling though fresh grass grew through the scorched summer earth....its paradoxical, more like Springtime with new growth and pretty flowers.
We struck out along a flat dusty track; some farm dogs barked angrily, unleashed some bounded towards us then actually retreated as we came closer. The chilly air quickly vanished, replaced by warm air and stronger sun. At a church, we stopped for a rest, a snack and a drink. I just lay flat on the paving in full sun enjoying its heat.
Passing a vineyard, a worker hollered to us and brandished armfulls of grapes which he passed over the fence; sweet and juicy, we soon had sticky fingers.
Amongst flat fields lay some ruins of ancient walls where we rested again after passing a small group of archeologists; they had unearthed something on a building plot and now the owners would have to wait until the area had been dug over with trowells and brushes. They were quite protective and didnt like us interfearing, especially spotting Colin with his camera...' no photos please ' the woman ordered. If you happen to build and come accross something buried, your project could be held up for years here!!
After our peaceful rest we continued to a church which from a distance looked more Eastern and temple like; Arriving there you could see how it had been pieced together using what looked like stonework pillaged from some important accropolis! It had a true Art and Craft feel inside with beautiful coloured windows and intricately cobbled flooring. None of us had been in such a church!
In the afternoon, leaves on trees were lit by golden light; haw berries, rosehips shone out of the foliage like jewels. A man hearding some sheep beckoned us onto his land and offered us some apples from trees there. They were the crunchiest, sweetest apples i'd ever had in Greece! Usually the bought types are dissapointingly wooly and bruised.
Back in Nestania, we heard there was a hotel of sorts in Kapsia where we headed. So, still some kms to go we continued; walking next to clums of Almond trees where we stopped and gathered some. This was the bucolic, abundant Arcadia that I'd heard about and it was a joy ambling slowly through the plains. The hills by now glowed blue as the sun dropped away, and we plodded to a mainroad. There it was...the hotel sign displaying 'Hotel and Suites'....thought it sounded rather grand and indeed it was as we rounded the corner.
A covered entrance decorated with groomed trees in pots led to the lobby; dark wooden floors, subtle lights, comfy chairs and through the glass doors shone the bright blue water of a swimming pool!
The rabble cluttered up the place with rucksacks, sticks and stuff and were soon ensconsed in luxurious rooms! Colin, Salina and I took advantage of the pool and went for a dip; felt so good to kick those legs and use different muscles, the water was full of bugs. Back in the room, found hilarious white slippers to pad around in and joked with Colin we should complete the rest of the walk wearing them!
Showered and clean again, we all met downstairs to walk up the road to the taverna for dinner. In the lounge,I sat at a grand piano and enjoyed a few chords. The surroundings were superb; someone with some taste had designed this. We seemed to be the only guests staying but apparantly the place gets busy hosting conferences. Its a strangely quiet location for such luxury; Kapsia is a tiny village on an asphalt road to nowhere!
Our taverna meal was good; the usual grilled stuff, salads and plonk.The others ate brontesaurus sized meat dishes. The owners had returned from Chicago and had quite strong accents; he thought he was great.. a real hot-shot! I liked the young waitress serving much better!
Wednesday 6th
At this point of the walk, Karin, Salina and Colin had previously chosen to break away to go and see the Scorpions playing live in Athens. They had arranged that another friend Mark would meet them at the hotel, pick them up and then return to wherever the rest of us managed to walk to. Thus, missing a days' walk. Mark turned up in the car and whisked them away. The rest of us had the oppotunity to offload any baggage not needed , as Mark would return. I got together a small bag of stuff made up of my paint set, a shirt and other things. It wasnt much unfortunately and my pack still felt the same hoisting it on my shoulders once again.
The group dynamic felt very different as they disappeared in the car to Athens; just four of us today. there was a compactness in our paired down group; John, Linda, Bruno and myself. We started later having the town of Vitina as our aim today.
Leaving the main road on our right, we found a path rising gradually into the mountains. The air was clean and fresh; Litchen dressed pine trees gave the landscape an alpine feel and soon I felt i wasn't in Greece; the stone houses looked like chalets with sloping overhanging roofs.
We joined smooth tarmac which began to snake upwards into cooler climes; the gamelan like noise of goat bells suddenly chimed in as we found a detour that cut off a big corner. They came through the trees towards us and quickly edged around,munching as they went. No shepherd around, just a couple of dosile dogs that weren't bothered by us. The bells clanked and jangled their mad tune that faded as they skipped away further down below. The smell of goat lingered in the air and their pellet poo showed us the way through the trees till we reached tarmac again.
At 15.500m the wind felt sharper, clouds greyed up the sky and we arrived at the skiing area: Manalo. We took a rest here and searched for water; a few old ski lifts stood among trees and in a big shed on a plateau, a piste-basher slept looking neglected.
The wooden huts looked very locked up and no tap was found for water. We were all quite low by now. There was an abandoned ghostly feel here; easy to imagine this busy little place in the snow with excited skiers everywhere and a chaotic,full car park. Now it was just us and some lonesome black ravens chortling at us from the sky.Their echoes bounced off bare rock as we sat out of the wind and I donned another top layer over my Tshirt. It was near enough 12c i reckoned...hadnt felt this cold in a while!
Linda had bandaged up her knee and was walking with a pained limp; it was concerning. Bruno walked with two of the most ungainly sticks ever seen; tatty and twiggy at the ends, hadnt even taken time to beautify them a little bit!! John plodded hapilly and for some time, quite a distance built up between us all.
I enjoyed the difference of just 4 of us today and had time to immerse myself in the silent landscape of pine forests where nothing much stirred. The lack of wind on the downhill walk made for a pleasant afternoon. Bruno had asked the question ' what would you most wish for ?' It was meant in the spiritual context. He was full of un-answered questions and never a day went past when some profound searching question would be raised when walking with him. Sometimes this was nourishing and stimulating, if the mood was right! This earlier question stayed with me and became a sort of meditation.
The act of walking in silence, just oneself in quiet space with the rhythm of each step and breathing is sometimes profound enough as one can simply Be. This is what brings me closer to everything that IS. The walk has this dimension and being present to the silence, being mindful of ones wondering thoughts, one becomes still and the need for chat is diminished.
Linda had bandaged up her knee and was walking with a pained limp; it was concerning. Bruno walked with two of the most ungainly sticks ever seen; tatty and twiggy at the ends, hadnt even taken time to beautify them a little bit!! John plodded hapilly and for some time, quite a distance built up between us all.
I enjoyed the difference of just 4 of us today and had time to immerse myself in the silent landscape of pine forests where nothing much stirred. The lack of wind on the downhill walk made for a pleasant afternoon. Bruno had asked the question ' what would you most wish for ?' It was meant in the spiritual context. He was full of un-answered questions and never a day went past when some profound searching question would be raised when walking with him. Sometimes this was nourishing and stimulating, if the mood was right! This earlier question stayed with me and became a sort of meditation.
The act of walking in silence, just oneself in quiet space with the rhythm of each step and breathing is sometimes profound enough as one can simply Be. This is what brings me closer to everything that IS. The walk has this dimension and being present to the silence, being mindful of ones wondering thoughts, one becomes still and the need for chat is diminished.
The alpine surroundings also brought on daydreams of warm fires, hot showers, skiing and good food; but this was Greece and it felt out of place!
As light turned more dusk-like, Vitina looked tantalisingly close down in the undulating blue hills,with blinking lights but the road took us in a teasing directon further from our target. We pressed on and Linda limped all the more but was able to keep her usual pace. Something in her face had changed. Maybe her knee was worse than it appeared to us.
Suddenly we emerged from the embracing forest and among a few street lights made out the shape of a hotel which on inspection seemed dead; we carried on up a delightful tree lined road with large stone houses lit by dim street lamps into the centre where Bruno and John both asked about rooms. We got directed to a place that had a 'domatia' sign but an oldish lady in black who answered the door said she was closed. Frustrsting now cos we were tired and hungry and now plodding slowly feeling the mountain night temperatures drop away.
I remembered passing a large stone house which looked like possible appartments so, double tracking, Bruno boldly shouted and knocked at a door from where murmering voices could be heard. A friendly Romanian, his wife and young girl stepped out and after some Bruno-banter, we eventually followed the lady into Vitina to appartments that she unlocked, revealing a couple of luxurious jaccusi, wrought iron and timber filled abodes with complementary bottle of johnny walker and red wine along with an overflowing fruit bowl! Gosh....what comfort but well deserved after the long day.
Linda crashed out straight away while John, Bruno and I stepped out into the night in search of sustenance! Ofton on these occasions, I would feel the comfort of walking in my sandals , but now had to wear socks with them. I doubted i had enough warm clothes with me for these temperatures.
Texts were sent to Karin and the Scorpion fans in Athens telling them to meet us in Vitina next morning.
As light turned more dusk-like, Vitina looked tantalisingly close down in the undulating blue hills,with blinking lights but the road took us in a teasing directon further from our target. We pressed on and Linda limped all the more but was able to keep her usual pace. Something in her face had changed. Maybe her knee was worse than it appeared to us.
Suddenly we emerged from the embracing forest and among a few street lights made out the shape of a hotel which on inspection seemed dead; we carried on up a delightful tree lined road with large stone houses lit by dim street lamps into the centre where Bruno and John both asked about rooms. We got directed to a place that had a 'domatia' sign but an oldish lady in black who answered the door said she was closed. Frustrsting now cos we were tired and hungry and now plodding slowly feeling the mountain night temperatures drop away.
I remembered passing a large stone house which looked like possible appartments so, double tracking, Bruno boldly shouted and knocked at a door from where murmering voices could be heard. A friendly Romanian, his wife and young girl stepped out and after some Bruno-banter, we eventually followed the lady into Vitina to appartments that she unlocked, revealing a couple of luxurious jaccusi, wrought iron and timber filled abodes with complementary bottle of johnny walker and red wine along with an overflowing fruit bowl! Gosh....what comfort but well deserved after the long day.
Linda crashed out straight away while John, Bruno and I stepped out into the night in search of sustenance! Ofton on these occasions, I would feel the comfort of walking in my sandals , but now had to wear socks with them. I doubted i had enough warm clothes with me for these temperatures.
Texts were sent to Karin and the Scorpion fans in Athens telling them to meet us in Vitina next morning.
Thursday 7th October
Woke up on a sofa bed gazing at an unlit fireplace, with Johnny Walker and fruit bowl positioned in a still life arrangement; John snored contendedly as did Bruno.
